Having just returned from an amazing few days in Dakhla, here’s our account of a brilliant trip.

The Journey

We flew out with Air Maroc from Heathrow’s Terminal 4 on a Wednesday evening in mid June. Three and a half hours to Casablanca with an overnight stop at The Atlas Hotel before continuing on to Dakhla the following day. We weren’t expecting too much from Air Maroc but to be fair, the flights were on-time, the food was edible and the drinks were complimentary. Likewise the Atlas Hotel is convenient and comfortable for an overnight stopover.

As we had a few hours to kill before our onward flight to Dakhla on Thursday, we elected to take the 40 minute train ride into Casablanca for a look round. On reflection this was a bit of a mistake as we found the City to be hot, grimy, throttled by grid-locked traffic and lacking in any kind of appeal. If I did the trip again I would instead choose to relax by the Hotel pool with a good book and a cold beer.

We flew the two hours down the Moroccan coastline to Dakhla. About half an hour prior to landing, I spotted the east coast of Fuerteventura out of the right hand side of the plane – this surprised me as I have visited the island often but never appreciated just how close it was to the African Continent

We landed at the brand new but miniature Dakhla airport where a very hot, very strong wind reminded us exactly why we had made the journey. The transfer to the camp took about 30 minutes and was an adventure in itself. We started off on an asphalt road but soon turned off into the desert, breaking trail through shifting sands passing large dunes on either side – I then realized why they use 4x4s rather than mini-buses! Pulling up at the camp it was dark but I could just make out the wide expanse of the lagoon in front of me.

The Camp

We settled into our ‘bungalow’ before going for dinner. The bungalows are small simply furnished cabins with en suite facilities. Not the ritz but perfectly adequate. Dinner on the first night was a very tasty lamb and vegetable couscous. Bottled water and bread are provided with the meal. Vegetarians are also catered for – just let them know on arrival. Breakfast is a very simple affair with various breads, preserves and butter accompanied by tea, coffee and juice. We took our own selection of snack bars, nuts etc and were glad of these when the mid morning cravings set in. Lunch is always something hot and tasty that sets you up nicely for the afternoon session.

We headed off to bed, full of anticipation for the following day’s activities. The ever present breeze and cool evening air ensures a good night’s sleep and I can honestly say I’ve never slept more soundly.

I should also mention the other accommodation option – Moroccan tents. The campsite is located about 500 metres along the lagoon from the main camp and, according to people who stayed in them the tents are absolutely fine and very comfortable. There is communal shower/toilet block and all tents have electric hook-up and proper wooden beds. A great option if you are on a tight budget

The best thing about arriving somewhere in the dark is waking up to a brand new, as yet unseen view and the panorama that greeted us that first morning definitely did not disappoint. The bungalows are built on a hillside above the dining area and face due south straight down the bay. Dragon Island, so named because of its shape, sits just off-shore surrounded by a huge expanse of flat blue water ruffled by a stiff breeze. The landscape is wild and unspoilt with no man made construction in sight. Overhead an azure blue sky and a temperature of about 25 degrees. On the beach I could see that kites were already being readied for action so I stopped gawping and started moving.

The Kitesurfing/Windsurfing

The kite centre itself is well-stocked with this year’s North Evo kites. These kites can be flown on 4 or 5 line bars and both options are available according to your preference. North’s X-Ride is the board of choice – available in all sizes. Windsurfers are also well catered for with the 2010 Fanatic range and North sails.  People bringing their own kit can store their precious toys in a secure storage facility adjacent to the centre for a small charge. At low tide there is a wide expanse of soft white sand on which to rig and launch with ease. At high tide things can get a little more interesting as most of the beach disappears but the staff are well versed in helping you launch/land safely.

It was blowing pretty hard on the first morning, so I rigged an 8m and headed out for some fun. Being used to the chop and confused waters of Brighton and Shoreham, I was immediately struck by the conditions. Sure, out in the middle of the bay there is some small chop (still nothing like Brighton mind) but closer in it is beautifully smooth, ideal for quick progression.  The lagoon shelves very gently, creating a massive shallow area that is especially appreciated by first-timers who seem to learn so quickly it almost seems like cheating. A safety boat is standing by in case assistance is required but the conditions are so perfect and the space so huge it is rarely called into action.

After a great day on the water where I actually saw some real progress, I retired happy and knackered to the beach bar, which is a great place to sit and watch the action– why does beer taste so good after a great session on the water?

It’s fair to say that evenings are pretty quiet in camp and most people struggle to stay awake much past dinner. There is a bar with pool table, ping pong, table football and terrace – nice for a pre/post dinner drink but party animals are likely to be disappointed.

Soufiane Hamaini, Centre Manager and North Kiteboarding International team member hails from Essaouira, another great Moroccan spot further up the coast. He, his lovely wife Gemma and their two children made Dakhla their home a few years ago and know the area better than anyone. Soufiane is a great freestyler but loves to ride waves whenever the opportunity presents itself. He’s in the right place because although the lagoon is famed for its flat water, just 20 minutes away on the Atlantic coast are two world class wave spots which regularly offer up superb conditions. Soufiane organises regular trips to these spots whenever the wind and waves are firing and the small fee is definitely worth the experience. Another trip that’s well worth signing up for is the epic downwinder – 6 miles of pure exhilaration across the bay to the great dune. Here you can either watch in admiration of have a go yourself at launching off the dune and floating down to the lagoon below.You are then transferred back to the camp in 4×4 vehicles.
Here is a little video of the Dune Jump!

Dakhla really is one of the most wind reliable spots in the world particularly from April to September when you can expect at least 90% of days to blow over force 4. Even the least windy months of Nov – Jan offer a better than 50% chance of good wind. We were there for three days and had perfect conditions each day ranging from 20 – 35 knots.

Summary

In summary, I really fell in love with Dakhla and will definitely go back to sample more of its delights at some point in the near future. There’s no denying the journey there and back is quite tedious but there are better connections than those we had to endure which can make the journey a lot shorter. The Waveriders team enjoy a great relationship with Air Maroc and will do their utmost to source the best connections for you. The simple, minimalist lifestyle that pervades the camp appeals to many but isn’t everyone’s cup of chai. Everything from the accommodation to the food and other facilities is best described as adequate – luxurious is not an adjective you will hear used very often – and non kiting/windsurfing partners will need a good book to keep them entertained. But as a reliable wind destination with warm shallow water and idyllic scenery and conditions, Dakhla is in my opinion without equal.

Andy